FRANCO MC CLIMBER'S GUIDE TO THE OBSCURE AND UNPUBLISHED

5 pitches are installed about 200 foot to the right of butterhole.  The top of the 5th pitch was some of the most downright frightening stuff I've ever led.  Got scared and have not been back since.     Its currently only done up to that point but more pitches certainly await above.  So i gotta wait on a final pitch count.  I dont necessarily recommend it at the moment unless runout, sketchy, barely bolted climbing with little information is your thing.    But its in and 6 pitches are "bolted" if you are feeling bold.   The belay atop the shitty third pitch are behind the big blocks. On the left side.  I'd not go up there without a bolt kit and a bunch of pins.  Wanna help me finish it ?? 

A direct variation has been bolted to the right of the butterhole.   5.9, 5.7, 5.10a .  It is called BUTTERHOLE DIRECT  Fa.  Adam matias and brendan clark and ben strachan.  July 2020.  The start is located about 25 m to the right if butterhole just along a short ledge.   Start in a small corner with a steep step to gain the first bolt.  It carries up 3 pitches and then meets up with the third pitch of BH.   The variation is set up for 30 m raps.  DO NOT KILL YOURSELF.   The raps are about 29.5 meters each.  You better knot those ends son or yer gonna die !  The standard rap for butterhole is always an option as well.  And guess what... its still not a sport climb.   If you are not really solid you might die.   The risk is real.  Big falls, run out.  Dont be a pooner.   There are now 8 pitches established on this fantastic moderate face.    More to come.