FRANCO MC CLIMBER'S GUIDE TO THE OBSCURE AND UNPUBLISHED

 Two , two pitch climbs have been established on the far west end of the west phantom bluffs as the wall wraps up into the Aquarius drainage.   Choss Pirates 5.6   2 pitch  MIXED a couple bolts.  Just as the wall wraps into the canyon you will see a corner with some less than appealing rock at the base.    Solo to the high first bolt ( watch the mank) and follow a kinda cool corner ( avoid the left side..you'll see) to a perch. Make a move right,  up easy stone to the anchors.   Make some funky fun moves off the belay and find the top few bolts of dirty pearl to finish.     Dirty Pearl 5.8 ( with a 10a start)  2 Pitch BOLTED 55m  Steep move off the ground, follow the near perfect limestone to the top ! Rap down.  I also started a.climb in the area and i got shut down.  There is 2 bolts to nothing.   Oh well. Cant win em all.   

 This place is sandstone, small, and a nice place to climb practically year round.   There are a few routes setup for leading but walking around and setting up a tr is the best method.    Approach is about 5 min from the car.  Excellent sun exposure.   Located on the south facing grassy slope above where the 40 and coal camp road meet.   The rock is better than it looks from the road, and better quality than it probably should be.    Although, care must be taken when climbing cuz things do happen.   More routes are likely to be established in the near future with topos !  Winter rock is not a world class destination by any means.  But ease of access and year round climbing make it worth a little stop if you are in the area.   Nice for a pump in the off season.   Could also be a great spot to teach some rapelling.