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Showing posts from October, 2014

BOW VALLEY OBSCURE

MY OBSCURE COLLECTION I am certain this post will be ever expanding. 1.  EXSHAW CRAG -  This is a fantastic off season climbing venue.  Literally 5 min to the cliff, all day sun and not too bad rock. It is located just behind exshaw !   its a small scrappy little thing that is easily seen.   maybe a scattering of 10 routes up there.   Never seen or heard of this thing before.  It is a great winter climbing crag if the sun is out. 2.  RATS NEST CANYON -  Went for a jaunt up past the cave.   Found some nice big boulders ( apparently have been climbed before) . .and limited opportunity for rock.  although, some decent patches are there.. In the back ( amphitheater) there is definitly a mixed climbing venue and some waterfalls that are definitly not visible from the road. what is this place called ? who put it up ? i have a feeling, its a local , or an abandoned crag.     and whats up with the bolts around rats nest cave ? 4.  YAM BLUFFS -  Also a good choice for wanti

PRIZED FIGHTER SLAB - 2 ROUTES AND COUNTING

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In for the 8 count 5.6 /R Weclome to Prized Fighter Slab. This Squamish apron look alike is nestled back in Kananaskis Country. I was lucky enough to get the first ascent on this wall with Rick Felber and Meghan.  The first route was done onsight / ground up in the fall of 2013 4 pieces in 50 meters.. not exactly my stlye, but i dont mind too much.. There is a set of anchors for anybody looking to give it a shot. bring half ropes. This wall is located 90 min up rocky creek. cant miss it as one rounds the final corner..  The route we did was on the extreme right hand end where the cliff is smaller.. Potential and a lot of it.  The smallest line we did was 50 meters, and the wall gets much taller than that..   There are cool cracks, corners, runnels and great featured slab all over.  One could estimate there could be over 30 routes on this face.  Anybody wanna help ? Also in the area there is prized fighter wall.  Host to potentially some routes in the 11+ range ?

NEW ROUTE ON NANNY GOAT

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Mail Order Drill 5.9   John and I completed this route in June of 2014.   It was our first multi-pitch climb.   It is located right in the descent gully between kid goat and nanny goat.     It is steeper than most think.  The rising crack on the first pitch is very cool and not a cake walk for the grade.   The rock is decent, and the climbing fun.  It's been modified to accomodate 60m ropes.    Bring some long runners to minimize the drag on the first pitch.  PITCH ONE - A short 5.3 solo leads you to a self drive.  Head up prickly, kinda tricky but positive slab to a bolt at the base of an appealing angled finger crack.  Clip the bolt and make for the crack.   Some burly and somewhat exposed moves take you to a perma draw.  Make a little move up and left to a good rest.  Follow the insanely prickly slab to an anchor on a ledge 5.9 +  great pitch.  PITCH 2 - juggy and positive moves off the belay lead into a textured and featured slab.  Climb the steepening wall through a fu