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Showing posts from 2017

New ghost river multi pitch. HIGH AND DRY 5.7+ on PHANTOM TOWER EAST FACE

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When you first drive into the ghost, this striking crack line can not be missed.   There is a good picture of it in the new ghost river guidebook somewhere. If somebody out there in the climbing world knows if this has been done before, some info would be appreciated. This past thursday, jon and I decided to make an attempt on the east face of phantom tower. The route is to the left of texas peapod and to the right of the Vicia. Likely is the easiest multi in the  south ghost.  5.7 for most of it with the odd section of 5.8. All of the belays were either off trees, or a self drive and a combination of gear. I will try to give an appropriate breakdown of the pitches. Here is a quick shot of High and Dry. The red line is where to climb-ish and the yellow dots are where to belay-ish. .  HIGH AND DRY ( 5.7+) 220 METERS   F.A.  JON PREVOST AND ADAM MATIAS  EARLY SEPT 2017 Approach as for east face of phantom tower.  Scramble up through some trees to gain the base

WEST PHANTOM BLUFFS DEVELOPMENT

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WELCOME TO WEST PHANTOM BLUFFS This lesser known area started to see development in 2015 with myself and Jon Prevost spearheading most of the development. UPDATE SEPT 2023 -smoother never got the chain added.  Use big caution.  3 new moderates on the far , far left end.  Portuguese thunder has a original and a new direct finish.   I gotta install anchors at the top of a bit of mustard.  Use the ketchup anchors till i get it done.    NEW ROUTE ! OCT 2023   Hot Croissant  10B OR C ish 30m 1 or 2 pitches depends on how ya wanna slice it up.   Located just to the left of BACKWOODS LOVECHILD. ALL BOLTED   The cliff faces almost due south and gets great sun exposure.  There is a waterfall ( malignant mushroom) that is a great way to cool off when it gets hot about 1 min down the trail.  This creek also allows an unlimited water supply if you bring a filter ( recommended)  and it keeps your beer cold ! I often stash beer in the creek so please dont drink my beer if you find it.