BUTTERHOLE DIRECT 5.10A NEW VARIATION TO BUTTERHOLE
A direct variation has been bolted to the right of the butterhole. 5.9, 5.7, 5.10a . It is called BUTTERHOLE DIRECT Fa. Adam matias and brendan clark and ben strachan. July 2020. The start is located about 25 m to the right if butterhole just along a short ledge. Start in a small corner with a steep step to gain the first bolt. It carries up 3 pitches and then meets up with the third pitch of BH. The variation is set up for 30 m raps. DO NOT KILL YOURSELF. The raps are about 29.5 meters each. You better knot those ends son or yer gonna die ! The standard rap for butterhole is always an option as well. And guess what... its still not a sport climb. If you are not really solid you might die. The risk is real. Big falls, run out. Dont be a pooner. There are now 8 pitches established on this fantastic moderate face. More to come.