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Showing posts from 2019

Butterhole. New moderate in devils gap.

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NOTE-  THE GIRL MADE A AN EXCELLENT PDF WRITE UP WITH PICS FOR BUTTERHOLE.     https://drive.google.com/file/d/115KQYqcm8pSxUsI0_qJdEOPUy0wSXCT6/view Pitch 1 -  a rather high first bolt leads up to a short blocky steep wall.   Make somewhat commiting moves and overtake the blocks on the right.  A few short moves back left take you to a small bay (bolt).  Continue up on good rock to a set of rings on a ledge.  5.5 Pitch 2 - follow a short corner up and left of the belay.  Clip the bolt and make your way (runout) right up to a sneaky slab move.   Above this , make your way up great juggy fun rock to rings on the ledge. 5.7. ( this pitch is known to be the most run out )  Pitch 3- off the belay, follow the corner right.   Follow the bolts up and head to the base of a steep wall.  Tackle the steep wall and follow hard to believe holds up and slightly left to a slabby section. There is an intermediate rap anchor just above the steep section.  Ignore these and run it out to the legde

BARRIER BLUFFS . NEW ROUTES and UPGRADES

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This spring 2019,  some new routing and route-tro fitting has been taking place on WINDY WALL at barrier bluffs.  Continue past yellow wall headed west and find the routes on the right. It is my overall ethic to bolt some new routes, and to re discover old classics.  No old trad routes are to be bolted and bolts only to be placed where necessary. Such as replacing fixed pins with a shiny bolt.  Im certain these routes are not true first ascents as kelly tobey i am sure has climbed every inch of that wall.  But i need to call em something. Piso mojado (5.8) is the second line of bolts after drifters escape.   Kinda steep, juggy and a sting at the end.  New route!  Its short but sweet.   Shortly further on the right is a quality little jug tug called taco time (5.7)  new route !  6 bolts carries you up to the right of the slightly overhanging crack of sounds like sex which is a quality gear line and one that you should try. A foray has been made to clean up square root of p