NEW ROUTE ON NANNY GOAT

Mail Order Drill 5.9  


John and I completed this route in June of 2014.   It was our first multi-pitch climb.   It is located right in the descent gully between kid goat and nanny goat.   

It is steeper than most think.  The rising crack on the first pitch is very cool and not a cake walk for the grade.  The rock is decent, and the climbing fun.  It's been modified to accomodate 60m ropes.   

Bring some long runners to minimize the drag on the first pitch. 

PITCH ONE - A short 5.3 solo leads you to a self drive.  Head up prickly, kinda tricky but positive slab to a bolt at the base of an appealing angled finger crack.  Clip the bolt and make for the crack.   Some burly and somewhat exposed moves take you to a perma draw.  Make a little move up and left to a good rest.  Follow the insanely prickly slab to an anchor on a ledge 5.9 +  great pitch. 

PITCH 2 - juggy and positive moves off the belay lead into a textured and featured slab.  Climb the steepening wall through a fun chert layer to the anchors.  5.8

PITCH 3 - honestly i often just do the first two pitches then rap.  But for those so inclined... 

Head right from the belay.  Follow a prickly and featured corner to a small bay.   Make your way up somewhat spacy bolts to find the anchors on a comfy ledge above.  5.6 

A walk off is possible, but not recommended in the least. 


Comments

  1. Anonymous6 June 2017 at 15:58

    Stellar first pitch ! Great little climb in a good little spot. We linked 2 kid goat sport routes with mail order drill on the walk off.

    Total 11 sport pitches at that 5.8-5.9 grade. Great day out.

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Yaha Crag guidebook.

Image
The yaha guidebook is here !  And new addition we have some yaha stickers !  Minimum 5 dollar donation to the bolt fund !  Big Shout out to all the people who help us out.   We can't thank you all enough.    Order your copy at climbyaha.ca :)  Some yaha tips !  1.  PLEASE make sure the parking stays reasonable. There is only room for about 8 cars,  so if it's full, park somewhere else.  There are other pullouts close by..  Don't piss of the horse folk plz by parking close to the road.   1a.  Rock Climbing is very new to the yaha.  Be on your best behaviour.  How we act will directly reflect on all climbers in the coming years and potentially forever.  So do the right thing.  Seeing gutted deer hanging at eagle Creek is not uncommon.  So just remember this isn't Canmore, and this isn't Banff.   1b.  When camping at eagle Creek, DO NOT camp in the equestrian sites unless you have horses. This pisses off the horse folk with horses. Please don't piss off the horse f
Read more

Winter rock.

Image
 This place is sandstone, small, and a nice place to climb practically year round.   There are a few routes setup for leading but walking around and setting up a tr is the best method.    Approach is about 5 min from the car.  Excellent sun exposure.   Located on the south facing grassy slope above where the 40 and coal camp road meet.   The rock is better than it looks from the road, and better quality than it probably should be.    Although, care must be taken when climbing cuz things do happen.   More routes are likely to be established in the near future with topos !  Winter rock is not a world class destination by any means.  But ease of access and year round climbing make it worth a little stop if you are in the area.   Nice for a pump in the off season.   Could also be a great spot to teach some rapelling.  
Read more