New ghost river multi pitch. HIGH AND DRY 5.7+ on PHANTOM TOWER EAST FACE

When you first drive into the ghost, this striking crack line can not be missed.   There is a good picture of it in the new ghost river guidebook somewhere.

If somebody out there in the climbing world knows if this has been done before, some info would be appreciated.

This past thursday, jon and I decided to make an attempt on the east face of phantom tower.
The route is to the left of texas peapod and to the right of the Vicia.

Likely is the easiest multi in the  south ghost.  5.7 for most of it with the odd section of 5.8.
All of the belays were either off trees, or a self drive and a combination of gear.

I will try to give an appropriate breakdown of the pitches.



Here is a quick shot of High and Dry.
The red line is where to climb-ish and the yellow dots are where to belay-ish.
. 


HIGH AND DRY ( 5.7+) 220 METERS  
F.A.  JON PREVOST AND ADAM MATIAS 
EARLY SEPT 2017

 Approach as for east face of phantom tower.  Scramble up through some trees to gain the base of the rock.  If you are keen to repeat it, get in touch with me for more accurate route descriptions. Or go and have an adventure.  

 pitch 1- from the scree, head up some good rock to a left facing corner. follow the corner up and make a break left up some rubbly ledges to a self drive and a great cam under a small roof ( 50 meter pitch 5.7) 

 pitch 2 -  climb the short corner above and locate a small chimney with a chockstone.  Make your way across the gullies ( exposed ) and climb the chimney with moderate difficulty and belay off a tree on your right (45m 5.7R) 

 pitch 3 - traverse left from the tree and gain the main corner.  A few tricky traverse moves will bring you to a self drive at a small ledge.  5.8 15m

 pitch 4 -  a great and sustained crack up with interesting and involved climbing for 40 meters till you arrive at a 2 bolt belay.   this crack takes some wide gear. 5.8  

 pitch 5.-  continue up the crack ( sometimes in and sometimes out ) till you reach the roof.  make a few moves right and located a bolt and cam belay on a decent ledge near 2 spruce trees.  5.7+ 40m 

 pitch 6.- Head out and right for the fat right facing corner that will take you to the top of the cliff. 5.7 50m 

 DESCENT IS BONANZA DESCENT GULLY .  THE CLIMB IS NOT SET UP AT ALL FOR A RAP. 

 It was a fun day out.  Easy climbing, took great gear and of course, fighting the choss. 
the rock is definitly meh in places but really great in others.  overall, id say its above average for rockies choss.  Here are some pics.  More to come. 

Jon on the 5th pitch of High and Dry. 

Here is jon climbing the top pitch of the crack. 5.7+

A look at the last exit pitch.  5.7



  

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