Butterhole. New moderate in devils gap.






NOTE-  THE GIRL MADE A AN EXCELLENT PDF WRITE UP WITH PICS FOR BUTTERHOLE. 

  https://drive.google.com/file/d/115KQYqcm8pSxUsI0_qJdEOPUy0wSXCT6/view

Pitch 1 -  a rather high first bolt leads up to a short blocky steep wall.   Make somewhat commiting moves and overtake the blocks on the right.  A few short moves back left take you to a small bay (bolt).  Continue up on good rock to a set of rings on a ledge.  5.5

Pitch 2 - follow a short corner up and left of the belay.  Clip the bolt and make your way (runout) right up to a sneaky slab move.   Above this , make your way up great juggy fun rock to rings on the ledge. 5.7. ( this pitch is known to be the most run out ) 

Pitch 3- off the belay, follow the corner right.   Follow the bolts up and head to the base of a steep wall.  Tackle the steep wall and follow hard to believe holds up and slightly left to a slabby section.
There is an intermediate rap anchor just above the steep section.  Ignore these and run it out to the legde above where you will find shiny rap rings.  5.7

Pitch 4-  head out and right up a break.  ( bolt partially hidden ) continue above and you will locate a  bolt at the base of a steep wall.  Start on the left and follow those money jugs to the top.   The upper section of this pitch is excellent for the grade.  5.8  steep, sustained and the jugs keep comin.

Pitch 5.  Follow the bolts up and right, through some overlaps, into a wide corner / chimney of sorts.   Spacy bolts lead up the chimney to eventually break left where the final rings await you.  5.7

Down - rap the route with a single 60 m rope.   NOTE  the rap from the top of the 4th pitch is about 40 m to the 3 rd.   Utilize the intermediate rap station.

Overview - Butterhole is a great little climb is a classy location.   The rock is excellent and the climbing juggy and fun.   It manages to follow a logical line up the face with an easy descent.
The grade is easy, but the climbing doesnt suck.  The views are pretty great too.

One only needs about 10 draws and a 60 m rope.   The climb is 100% bolted, but in saying that its totally NOT A SPORT CLIMB.  All of the hardware was drilled ground up on the second ascent.
There are some big runouts and a steady leader is required at the 5.8 grade. Seriously. 

Butterhole is in the same league as morningside, aftenroe ,grey waves, return to sender.   The except the rock is way better and the bolts are way spacier. 

We walked in from the top of the big hill and it took us 145  with all the hardware, drill, bolts, batteries and 2 ropes.  Walking at a casual pace.    The next week we walked in from the park boundary with minimal gear and we were at butterhole in just under an hour.

So go get on it.  Its good if you want to drag a noob with you.  Easy to watch your second and stay within a manageable distance.  Just dont be a lump leading.  Like i said, its spacy and new.  We cleaned rubble twice, but ya never know.  

BUTTERHOLE
FA DERYN AND ADAM.
JULY 2019




















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