NEW CRACK PROJECT IN KANANASKIS

New Route I discovered On Nov 11 2014



             Meghan, Jon and I discovered this gem tucked back into k country earlier this week.   It looks wild.   Although, im aware that other people have seen this roof, nobody seemed to mention the crazy ass line that is just waiting to be picked.

On an ice climbing flop, we decided to go for a hike instead.   What we found is almost unlike anything i have seen in the rockies to date.   There are hand cracks, finger cracks, thin fingers and what i certainly see as almost an offwidth.  And the angle of the thing is very in your face.  Its up for debate if the climb will go ground up.  The crack is full of dirt and moss in the upper section,  but the crack is almost perfect under the roof.  Needless to say, this will be a future project for me.  I dont think it will need any bolts at all.. perhaps one or two but time will tell.    From what we could see standing under this monster, there is potential for lots of gear.


 I do hope this crack is as fun as I hope it is going to be.  Its quite the long walk in there for this, but there are other walls in the area that will undoubtedly yeild climbs from 5.7 multipitch sport all the way to 11+ sport.  And potentially a few gear lines as well.  The pic above is facing the roof.  One can see how wide the crack gets near the top. 



This climb seems delightfully out of flavour with the majority of climbs out there.  Not much in the rockies looks like this that I am aware of.  I have no idea on the grade, but it does not look easy.   To the right of that tree in the above photo, there are good patches that would make for good sport routes.


Comments

  1. Anonymous30 November 2014 at 08:19

    Cool!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Anonymous1 December 2014 at 15:45

    Its going to be a hard one!

    ReplyDelete
  3. Unknown25 July 2017 at 14:24

    Any updates on this? I'd love to check it out and help clean up the area. That crack looks phenomenal.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Anonymous27 June 2023 at 21:31

    Is this up Rocky Creek behind Wedge? I rapped down it a few years back after stumbling upon it as well. Looks amazing and I think would go with a bit of cleaning. Any updates there?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ADAM MATIAS29 June 2023 at 05:33

      No updates on my end. It's still ripe for the pickings!

      And yes, it's at least 90min up rocky Creek. Left side, past the big slab. Would def make a good climb tho.

      Delete
    2. Anonymous29 June 2023 at 14:40

      Nice. That crack looks beauty ya. Dangled around on it with some cams in the corner and pulled off a few loose flakes on the wall, needs lotsa cleaning but never got around to going back. Ya would probably go all on gear but would have a few spicy flared pieces here and there. Did you bolt the multis up the big black slab up there too? Any info on those? Was checking those out too. I first noticed all this stuff when doing a scramble up the south ridge (5.3ish) up wedge which is also a nice ridge route.

      Delete
    3. ADAM MATIAS29 June 2023 at 14:50

      I know rick felber and crew are responsible for at least one the routes up the slab. Put in like 3 or 4 years ago.

      I did a mostly trad line down on the right end but there's only top anchors.

      That crack would need a goood scrubbin. Good on ya for getting it going tho ! If that thing was highway side, it would have been a classic already.

      Delete

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