NEWEST GHOST RIVER ICE CLIMB MARCH 2015.


DREAMS OF JAMAICA
WI 3 100 METERS
F.A  J.PREVOST AND A.MATIAS
MARCH 2015

We do believe that this is the newest discovered ice in the North Ghost.
Although, Frank Campell is a machine and I would not be too surprised to hear that he did climb it.  If this route has been done before, i will credit the due parties.

So after a camping trip at Claw creek, we were wondering what was further up the north ghost valley. .  and off we went
We hiked in to the last drainage on the north side of the valley. It was the 3rd ? big valley after claw creek.  There was a very solid flow making its way down to valley bottom. This was all we needed. For sake of a name, we called it jon's canyon. 

So, off we went.  The hike in is up a boulder choked gulley, but its okay going.  after about 30 min, we saw the first chunk of ice and it was fat and blue.
about a 15 meter grade 3+. not climbed yet.

So we headed up the slot and went hunting some more.

About 5 min after this first drip (which has potentail for mixed maybe)..
we could see a lot of blue ice coming out of a very narrow slot to our left.


Oh boy was I excited.  Although, since we were retards and didnt bring ice gear..
we had to make a second trip.

This time, we were armed to the teeth. Hammers, pins rack and boltkit.
And off we went. 
After the first few steps, i was amazed with the sheer amount of ice. It was so fat. to start.

 The pic above is the narrow slot at the end of the first small pitch which opens to a big frozen pool with the crux of the climb easily visible. 

 I ended up leading the crux pitch and it was good.  not a hard pitch by any means, but it was steep enough, fun and mega fat.  There aint NO help back where we were.. so not pushing it is okay.
 Above the crux pitch, there are two smaller drips that were thin (protected with micro cam) and the other one we soloed.

We topped out into more avy terrain than i typically like to see, , although, the snow was not crazy deep and conditions were okay.  We tried to post hole up the valley more looking for more ice, but we said fuck it because we had a long way to get out.

It was -28 when we woke up that morning.  And the whole time, we were dreaming of Jamaica.


It was a good day out.  We both asked around, and nobody had ever heard of any climbs where we were at.  So its nice to get a pure adventure climb for a change.  We also saw some ice in the next drainage past claw creek, and there are many other canyons on both sides the whole way up there.  We definitly will be in there next winter.







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